Exosomes seem to be everywhere at the moment. They’re appearing in skincare products, aesthetic treatment menus and plenty of headlines, some enthusiastic and others raising questions about their safety.
So it’s hardly surprising that one of the questions we’re being asked at Bare Beauty is, “Are exosome treatments even legal?”
It’s a perfectly reasonable question, particularly when you start reading about products derived from human stem cells and the concerns surrounding their use in cosmetic treatments.
At Bare Beauty in Saffron Walden, we use a professional exosome treatment containing particles derived from mandarin fruit grown on Jeju Island in Korea. The product is called Derma Exosome Age, and we combine it with microneedling to support skin hydration, texture and overall skin quality.
As with any treatment, we think you should understand exactly what’s being used on your skin, what the research tells us and what results you can realistically expect.
What Are Exosomes and How Do They Work?
Exosomes are tiny particles released by cells that help carry messages between them.
Measuring approximately 30 to 150 nanometres, they can contain proteins, lipids and genetic material involved in cellular communication. Scientists are particularly interested in their potential role in tissue repair, inflammation and regeneration.
In skincare, researchers are exploring whether these cellular messages could help support processes associated with collagen production, hydration and skin recovery.
However, the source of the particles matters, as does the scientific evidence behind the finished product.
What’s the Difference Between Plant-Derived and Human-Derived Exosomes?
Exosome products can come from different biological sources, including human cells and plants.
Some products marketed for aesthetic treatments contain human-derived exosomes, often associated with stem cells. Under UK cosmetics regulations, ingredients of human origin are prohibited in cosmetic products, which has raised concerns about certain treatments being offered within the industry.
At Bare Beauty, we use a plant-derived formulation containing particles extracted from Citrus reticulata, a variety of mandarin grown on Jeju Island in Korea.
Scientists generally describe these particles as plant-derived extracellular vesicles or exosome-like particles because they differ from human exosomes.
Although the beauty industry commonly uses the term “exosomes” for both, understanding the distinction helps you make a more informed decision about treatment.
Plant-derived ingredients avoid the specific prohibition on human-origin cosmetic ingredients, although the finished product and the way it is used must still meet the relevant UK safety and regulatory requirements.
What’s in Bare Beauty’s Exosome Treatment?
We use Derma Exosome Age, manufactured in Italy by Derma 2.0 for professional use.
The formulation contains mandarin-derived extracellular vesicles alongside several established skincare ingredients, each included for a particular purpose.
- Mandarin-derived exosome-like particles: Being investigated for their potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin-supporting properties. Human clinical evidence for this particular ingredient remains limited.
- Sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid): A well-established humectant that helps attract and retain moisture, supporting skin hydration and a plumper appearance.
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7: Cosmetic peptides used in formulations designed to support skin appearance and address signs of ageing.
- Acetyl hexapeptide-30 and acetyl octapeptide-3: Peptides marketed for their potential effects on the appearance of expression lines, although evidence of meaningful clinical effects is limited.
- Glutathione: An antioxidant included to help protect against oxidative stress.
- Arginine: An amino acid involved in several biological processes, with limited direct evidence for its specific benefits in this treatment.
The combination is designed to support skin quality, with hydration, texture and overall appearance among the main treatment goals.
What Does the Science Say About Exosome Therapy?
This is where it’s worth looking beyond the headlines.
Research into exosomes and extracellular vesicles is developing rapidly, with scientists investigating their potential applications in skin repair, inflammation and regenerative medicine.
Laboratory research involving mandarin-derived vesicles has reported antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, including findings discussed in a 2023 study by Li and colleagues.
These early findings are encouraging, although laboratory results cannot tell us exactly how a finished cosmetic treatment will perform on human skin.
The manufacturer also refers to its own efficacy research, but the studies cited in the original product information have not been established as independently peer-reviewed clinical trials.
There is stronger clinical evidence for some of the other components of the treatment, particularly microneedling, which stimulates the skin’s natural wound-healing response and can support collagen remodelling.
Hyaluronic acid also has an established role in skin hydration, while certain cosmetic peptides have been studied for their potential effects on skin appearance.
At Bare Beauty, we believe it’s important to distinguish between ingredients with an established evidence base and newer technologies that are still being investigated.
How Is Exosome Therapy Performed at Bare Beauty?
Our treatment combines Derma Exosome Age with microneedling. Microneedling uses very fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, triggering its natural repair response and encouraging collagen remodelling.
The exosome formulation is applied as part of the treatment protocol, with the aim of supporting skin hydration and overall quality.
The original manufacturer guidance recommends a course of at least three treatments, generally spaced seven to ten days apart, followed by maintenance treatments every four to six months where appropriate.
Results develop gradually, and clients may notice improvements in hydration, texture and radiance over time. Individual results vary, and the additional contribution of the exosome-derived ingredients has yet to be established through robust human clinical trials.
We’ll assess your skin and medical history before recommending treatment. If you’ve recently had anti-wrinkle injections or dermal fillers, the protocol specifies waiting at least four weeks before proceeding.
We’ll also discuss suitability, any necessary skin testing and the aftercare involved.
Who Might Benefit From Exosome Therapy?
Exosome Therapy may appeal to people who are beginning to notice changes in their skin quality and want to explore treatments that support its overall appearance.
Common concerns include:
- Dull or tired-looking skin
- Uneven skin texture
- Fine lines
- Reduced hydration
- Changes in skin firmness
- Loss of radiance associated with ageing
Suitability depends on your skin, health history and the treatment protocol, which is why a consultation is important.
What Should You Ask Before Having Exosome Therapy?
With so many different products being marketed as exosome treatments, it’s worth asking a few questions before booking.
What product will be used? Your practitioner should be able to tell you the brand, manufacturer and ingredients.
Where do the exosomes come from? Ask whether the product contains human-derived, animal-derived or plant-derived material, as this can affect its regulatory status and suitability.
How will the treatment be performed? Find out whether the product is applied topically, combined with microneedling or administered through another method, and check that the practitioner has appropriate training.
What evidence supports the treatment? Ask about the research behind the specific formulation and what results are realistic.
A reputable practitioner should be happy to explain these details and discuss the limitations of the available evidence.
Curious About Exosome Therapy?
If you’ve been hearing about exosome treatments and wondering whether they could help improve your skin, we’d be delighted to talk you through the options.
At Bare Beauty in Saffron Walden, we take a personalised approach to skin health, considering your concerns, treatment history and longer-term goals before making recommendations.
Book a consultation with Bare Beauty to find out more about Exosome Therapy and whether it’s a suitable treatment for your skin.
